To go along with the Periodic Table name, beer is served in beakers, glass milk bottles of water brought to table feature a stick of activated charcoal, and colorful portraits of Einstein and other famed scientists and thinkers hang on the brick walls at the industrial-chic Speonk location.

Brewology: Delicious Down To A Science

Independent/Bridget LeRoy
Sweet Potato and Duck Nachos, great for sharing. 

Brewology, the Speonk branch (there’s another one in Port Jeff), has its schtick down. To go along with the Periodic Table name, beer is served in beakers, glass milk bottles of water brought to table feature a stick of activated charcoal, and colorful portraits of Einstein and other famed scientists and thinkers hang on the brick walls at the industrial-chic location. Much of the furniture and flooring is built in East Moriches using reclaimed wood and steel.

Although brew, burgers, and bar food are the staples of Brewology, it is the entrées that really knock it out of the park.

My date for dinner was the Hamptons Party Girl herself, Dawn Watson, editor at large for Hamptons Real Estate Showcase. “Senses engaged,” she quipped while sipping the Sweet Thyme Lemonade, a combo of VDKA 6100, Koval Organic Ginger, lemon, and fresh muddled thyme on the rocks.

Microbrews rule here and are rotated frequently, with an accent on local, and feature options like the Hell or High Watermelon, an American wheat ale with watermelon. There is also rosé cider, Flemish sour ale, amber ale, and lots more.

We split a series of apps: hot chili calamari served with a cilantro lime dipping sauce, ‘shroom chips, a skillet of roasted Brussels sprouts, some fingerling potatoes, and the brewfrites — a compendium of fries smothered with hickory smoked cheddar, beer-braised pork belly, gravy, and crème fraiche, topped with a fried egg.

Of these, the best were the calamari and the Brussels sprouts. The squid was lightly fried with just the right amount of heat toward the back end, and the dipping sauce was delicious. The Brussels sprouts, tossed with bacon, red onion, and cranberries, is a knock-out dish, whether as an app, a side, or even a main course.

Our wonderful server, Cindy, happily held the bacon for Dawn on the sprouts, but I’ve had them both ways, and they’re equally delicious whether vegetarian or not. The BrewFrites dish was a little overly ambitious and soggy, and the mushrooms were delicious, but the sauce they were served with congealed quickly. The fingerling potatoes, cooked perfectly, could have held a bit more seasoning.

Sweet potato and duck nachos were a hit to share, a delicious mountain of crispy sweet potato chips, pulled duck confit, duck jus, slaw, and Brewology cheese sauce. The grilled peach salad, with arugula, charred radicchio, grilled peach, pecans, crispy pancetta, parmesan cheese, and honey-shallot vinaigrette was a tasty combo and a very generous portion. Protein, of course, can be added if desired.

Burgers come in a multitude of ways, including a venison burger, and sandwiches feature a Cajun po’boy (with shrimp), turkey burger, veggie burger, and the Brewben — Brewology’s version of a Reuben.

But it’s under the staples (or entrées) section that brewology hides some of its best dishes. The roasted free-range chicken — semi-boneless, pan-roasted chicken with those gorgeous Brussels sprouts, the fingerling potatoes, and tons of Pilsner jus — is just about the best chicken dish I’ve had since Della Femina closed its doors.

Swimming in fragrant juice with just the right amount of skin-crunch and herbs, this dish brings one to the very steps of Chez L’Ami Louis in Paris, long known for serving the best chicken in the world. Executive Chef Chris Zullo really hit it out of the park with this one.

The glazed salmon and Creekstone Farms espresso rubbed New York strip also do not disappoint. Cooked perfectly to order, the salmon is served with tasty Pilsner-braised leeks, and the steak accompanied by roasted corn and a chocolate jus reduction.

Dessert choices include a maple-sweet potato cheesecake, donuts and “coffee” — warm donuts stuffed with nutella and marshmallow fluff served with espresso dipping sauce, and even a craft root beer float.

For tasty microbrews and a full dinner, especially if you’re in the mood for chicken, Brewology hits the spot.

Brewology is located at 295 Montauk Highway, Speonk. 631-801-6221. www.brewology295.com.

bridget@indyeastend.com