Fonville, Phillipp bring simple cuisine to the kitchens

New Chefs At The Maidstone, Moby’s




Moby’s has a new chef this season and he comes with a good pedigree. Martel Fonville, who started this summer, worked at Gramercy Tavern, A Voce, fish mecca Esca, and Upland before taking the reins at the hopping spot on Three Mile Harbor.

“I’ve brought a simpler, more natural style of cooking here,’’ said the chef, who is now presenting such dishes as a whole rack of lamb for two with couscous, feta, olives, and smoked Greek yogurt; ora king salmon with raw shaved zucchini, squash blossoms, and citrus vinaigrette; scallops with local corn, crispy leeks, torn mint, basil, and micro herb salad; chilled English pea soup with lump crab, and panna cotta with smoked salt and vanilla bean. Moby’s party vibe is still in the air — reggae is offered on the lawn every Sunday from 5 to 9 PM.

Ronald Philipp, who took the post of chef at The Maidstone this year, began his Hamptons career 25 years ago at Wings Point, which occupied the space that now houses Moby’s. He trained at the kitchens of River Café and The Water Club before becoming chef at Barefoot Contessa. Like Fonville, he is going for simpler presentations, like Tuscan grilled veal with sage and lemon served over lemon arugula salad with roasted potatoes; and sautéed local fluke over spinach with seasonal vegetables. Philipp also has a late-night menu served until midnight on weekends that includes seafood towers, charcuterie, and a “build your own’’ French fry plate with options like chili sauce, cheddar cheese, curry sauce, and bacon.

On Sundays, he hits the outdoor grill and smoker for a barbecue, smoking baby back ribs over four kinds of wood — apple, hickory, cherry and maple — and presenting pork tenderloin with bourbon peach sauce. “People can hang out in garden,’’ Philipp said. “Tables have umbrellas and there are string lights at night; it’s peaceful but fun!”

And don’t forget, Maidstone lets you bring your dog to dinner if you eat outside. “We try and accommodate them in any way possible,’’ said Philipp. “We have a doggie menu, but if you don’t see something you like, we will customize!’’

Tim Gaglio is bringing Osteria Salina back to the Hamptons. The Sicilian restaurant, that was first located on School Street before moving into the Wainscott house now occupied by Il Mulino, is returning as a pop up in Water Mill Square. It’s scheduled to open August 8 and run through September.

Geoffrey Zakarian and culinary publicist Jaret Keller are releasing a cookbook this week called “Hamptons Entertaining.” It highlights recipes from some of the area’s most notable residents including Martha Stewart, Gwyneth Paltrow, Bobby Flay, David Burtka and Neil Patrick Harris, and Giada De Laurentiis. “I’ve been coming to the Hamptons for over 25 years, and I’m excited to release a book that’s filled with a collection of recipes from friends whose entertaining is inspired by the East End,’’ said Zakarian.

Bridgehampton Inn chef Brian Szostak has also just released a cookbook, and this one is technologically advanced. The “Look and Cookbook” has QR codes you scan and link to videos for cooking demonstrations. “I don’t like to do the same traditional food; I prefer to give it a different spin,’’ explained Szostak, who was formerly chef de cuisine at Noah’s in Greenport.

His menu, which changes monthly, includes variations on American classics like lobster corn dogs, crab tots, along with Eastern-influenced dishes like kung pao cauliflower; local fish with lychee, salad, micro greens, and chili oil; Asian style pork ribs with kimchi macaroni salad; farm stand Cobb salad with miso buttermilk ranch dressing, and yuzumisu, a play on tiramisu with yuzu syrup and Chinese black tea instead of coffee.